 Squaw's Tit
- Canadian Rockies
Alan Kane suggests in
his guide book that the name "Squaws Tit" is politically incorrect. Yes I'd say so.
This name won't stick.
Just for the record,
from now on I'll refer to this mountain as ST.
I felt like I deserved what I got for climbing a mountain with a name that's so disrespectful, a chunk of flesh gouged out of my left hand.
It was near the summit, and I was down climbing after having gone through a snow patch when WHAM, I did an endo vaulting over my left hand in the process, and tumbling down a shallow chimney.
I was ultra cautious after that, and frankly kind of wasted, so much so that I reached out and grabbed a helping hand to get over a short wall. On the way through Harvey Heights, I got a few looks. My clothes were shredded and bloody from the accident. By the time we got back to the truck I couldn't clench a fist. My muscles were seizing.
Some salty snacks cured that almost instantly.
Back at the summit though, the highlight for me was climbing a 10 meter vertical chimney on the back of the "nipple". What fun!
More pictures will come next summer when I go back and climb the chimney again.
Mountain Photography
> < |
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Another View.
The route goes up the triangular face below the summit, then
left around and behind the "nipple" |
 Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe.
Pierre Burton
Notes for August
2002
Well the first time was good the second time better.
This scramble and the
traverse from
Ha Ling to Mount Lawrence Grassi are definitely my favorite
Canmore area scrambles.
This time, all went
smoothly. I think I noticed that the way was a bit more worn. No doubt
people have been traipsing over this trail for the last few years since my
first visit.
Mountain Photography
> < |
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Close to the summit "nipple" |
The summit chimney
seemed less imposing than last time. Things in our memory can take on
bigger proportions than they warrant in reality. Funny how that
works.
Ha Ha Ha.
Just laugh and the stress goes away.
On the way down I
crossed the drainage early and found a path system that took me back
to Spray Drive in Harvey Heights. The pictures on this page will
give you an idea of how it looks. Kane's "intervening trees" are for
the most part totally unnecessary. If you go up this trail
eventually a right fork will take you across the drainage and to an
area that is very near the triangular face. Just keep your face
looking towards the face.
When it's east of you, go east up the
face.
On the summit was a
small rusted lozenge container with a note. It advised that you
leave your stash for some guy named Buba or something like that.
 he
American ideal of sexuality appears to be rooted in the American
ideal of masculinity. This idea has created cowboys and Indians,
good guys and bad guys, punks and studs, tough guys and softies,
butch and faggot, black and white. It is an ideal so paralytically
infantile that it is virtually forbidden -- as an unpatriotic act
-- that the American boy evolve into the complexity of manhood.
James
Baldwin
1924-1987, American Author
 hite man builds big fire, stands
back. Indian builds little fire, huddles close
Source Unknown
here there is much light, the
shadow is deep.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
1749-1832, German Poet, Dramatist, Novelist
©
CanadasMountains.com + Tim L. Helmer
Friday February 08, 2008 11:22 AM
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