Mumm Peak on the right. The summit is gained across the snow.
Photo courtesy of
Tom Seto
Well it's been a few
years since this mountain was visited. But I'll tell you something
right now.
I am going to go
back to Robson Pass, and when I get there, Halleluiah. Even if it
takes a life time,
I will
get back there, and I'm going to bag this peak again, and this time
take photos of the 14 meter vertical chimney, and the route along
the summit ridge, and between the two peaks. And enjoy!!!
Mount Robson
is one of the great mountains of the world and is one of my
inspirations and obsessions that have contributed to my creating
this site.
This is me packing at Doug's car. The bottle on the ground is
V.S.O.P.
The Moon sets over Mount Robson's north face at 6 AM from near
Berg Lake. The Emperor Face is a way tough climb and is the
wicked looking thing in the center.
Mumm Peak
I went to the left summit first, alone. Then traversed the summit
block to the right summit. Next summer perhaps I'll go back then
shoot some photos for you.
My friend at that
time who had come with me to Mount Robson many times, took off
before I was ready and although I could have continued to the peak
after I caught up to him near the summit, I felt like sticking with
my buddy (sahib client) and went down with him instead of
continuing.
In retrospect,
crossing the flats alone from Robson Pass Campground on the way to
Snow Bird Pass listening to my usual Robson music (The Band)
afforded me a moment that has stuck in my mind over the years.
Even though it's about ten years ago now, I still remember looking
across at Mount Robson shrouded in cloud.
Then the clouds
parted partially only revealing the banded horizontal strata of
the massive Emperor Face of Mount Robson. I was startled to see it
like that, even though I had seen it many times before.
I
felt native.
ought for the party to kingdom
come,'' sadly told his only son
''Just be careful what you do, it all comes back on you
False witness spread the news, somebody's gonna lose
Either she or me or you, nothing we could do''
''So don't you say a word or repeat a thing you heard
Time will tell you well if the truth truly fell
Tarred and feathered, yeah, thistled and thorned
One or the other,'' he kindly warned
''Now you look out the window, tell me what do you see?''
''I see a golden calf pointing back at me''
Well, they'd set their ... for so darn long, waiting for the end
to come along
... or on the brink, I'd take a choice, swim or sink
False witness cast an evil eye, said I cannot tell a lie
Kings and saints don't bother me, I'm not alone you see
The
Band
Album: Music From Big Pink
Song: To Kingdom Come
Anyways, back to the
story.
After I caught up we
slid five then had lunch below the ridge top.
I decided to go down
with the trend. I did'nt summit this easy peak and was ambivalent.
As for the summit of
Titkana Peak, I've decided to go back, alone, and have my own moment
finally after all those years.
Cinnamon Peak
I'll think of L. Q.
Coleman.
He went alone on the first ascent in August 1908.
That trip was my
second of two that particular summer that took me to Mt. Robson. On
the second trip another friend Doug, tried his hand at Mumm Peak,
but was unsuccessful due to snow.
He was new to
scrambling and also alone on this attempt, but later went on to
successfully scramble Mt. Chephren with Tom, a friend of his.
I haven't heard from
Doug since then. He took all of these photos with the exception of
Mumm Peak at the top of the page.
Those were taken by
Tom Seto
when we went to Snow Bird pass in 1986.
Tom's photo has
yellowed with age.
The first trip of
1993 was great. It was so enjoyable that I managed to convince my
freind to go back again.
On that first trip,
thunder, lightning, stumbling dying deer, and "God damn Virginians"
(must be said into a water flask while drinking so as to resonate)
were part of the lore of the voyage. One of the Virginians was a
loud piano key toothed fellow who when hearing about my summit
exploits asked, "are you CAANADEEANE"?
The next day I
watched as the roped party turned back at the chimney. Redemption
was sweet. Please don't get me wrong, I love American's, just not
that one.
ang around, Willie Boy,
Don't you raise the sails anymore.
It's for sure, I've spent my whole life at sea
And I'm pushin' age seventy three;
Now there's only one place that was meant for me:
Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
We're gonna soothe away the rest of our years,
We're gonna put away all of our tears,
That big Rockin' Chair won't go nowhere.
Slow down, Willie Boy,
Your heart's gonna give right out on you
It's true, and I believe I know what we should do.
Turn the stern and point to shore,
The seven seas won't carry us no more.
Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
I can't wait to sniff that air,
Dip'n snuff, I won't have no care,
That big Rockin' Chair won't go nowhere.
Hear the sound, Willie Boy,
The Flyin' Dutchman's on the reef.
It's my belief
We've used up all our time,
This hill's to steep to climb,
And the days that remain ain't worth a dime.
Oh, to be home again,
Down in old Virginny,
With my very best friend,
They call him Ragtime Willie.
Would-a-been nice just t'see the folks,
listen once again to the stale jokes,
That big Rockin' Chair won't go nowhere.
I can hear something calling on me
And you know where I want to be
Oh Willie don't you hear that sound
Oh to be home again down in old Virginny
I just want to get my feet back on the ground
Oh to be home again down in old Virginny
I'd love to see my very best friend
They call him Rag-time Willie
I believe old rockin chair's got me
Oh to be home again
ought for the party to kingdom
come,'' sadly told his only son 
ang around, Willie Boy, 
